![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXhE6usWbTz1wedvZYhxS__mJyI15S9-SKRItrb9JWOaGB35NTz6L8MMKuNvKfbCzD8Rw8QbA8IkbRMFehazvviO7fFOfVd3_8vdMs0IdAI7QdzaqcuoRDGdiIMUfigC2VVWBpUUZOnmc/s320/amp_schematic.gif)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS9EEuTOEuCUWPrVc3k6vX3k_MOpvHTYH_iclW4pxuygOrR16IURGpSO6suwY717ehV_6LYSx5h5hM7eUmGWxYoqZbh5JOTNOcBukOu7gnPZ9kKutgKOifOc1CF4vxakKW6x71CEiLnDQ/s320/amp_components.gif)
This is a very simple, low cost, Hi-Fi quality power amplifier. You can build it 5 ways, like it�s shown in the table (from 20 W to 80 W RMS).
Some comments:
- The first thing that you must do, is to measure the end transistors (T3 and T4) amplifying coefficient, the hfe or β. If their disagreement is bigger than 30 %, the amplifier would not give a clear sound. I used MJ3001 and MJ2501 transistors, and this disagreement was around 5%.
- Before the first �turning on� you must short circuit the inputs of the amp, and put a mA-meter on the output, than turn the amplifier on, and tune the R13 pot, to decrease the DC current on the output, to some uA-s, or in a lucky situation to zero. I was able to decrease it to 10 uA.
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